Wild and wonderful Corbières

Pat Neville, a former inter-county footballer and lecturer, is making wines with very individual character in a small village in one of France's biggest wine-producing areas, writes JOHN WILSON

EVERY YEAR, THOUSANDS of Irish people exit the airport in Carcassonne, take the A61 motorway southwards, past Jacques Tissinier’s strange Cathar Knights statues (which looks remarkably like a remnant from the second World War), and head on towards the resorts running along the glittering Mediterranean sea.

In their eagerness to reach their destination, many remain oblivious to the surrounding countryside. This is a wild, wind-swept region, full of tumbling, craggy, sun-baked mountains. The slopes are covered in garrigue – tough, low-growing, spiky, dark green shrubs, the only plants able to survive the arid conditions and constant wind.

Once off the motorway, you will come across the odd stucco farm, with erect cypress trees to provide shade, and the occasional small, semi-deserted town. Otherwise, all is quiet, except for the wind. This is Corbières, a vast triangular region, running in a line from Carcassone to Narbonne, then westwards towards the Pyrenees.

The vine has been cultivated here since Roman times. Corbières forms the largest wine region of the Languedoc, producing almost 75 million bottles of wine every year. More than 90 per cent of it is red. Carignan is the main grape, but legally a minimum of two varieties must be used, so Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre can also feature.

Pat Neville is a former inter-county footballer, lecturer in old middle English at UCC, and self-taught vine-grower and winemaker. Since 2002, he and his wife Catherine have run Domaine Aonghusa, a small 12-hectare estate near Fontjoncouse, a village of 120 people (with a two-star Michelin restaurant) in southern Corbières.

“We have nothing in common with the other parts of Corbières – it is a very large mish-mash area,” he says. “It doesn’t make sense as a single entity. We don’t try to make Corbières; we make wines that reflect their sites and the year that produced them.

“The dominant factor here is altitude; it can get pretty hot during the day, but is much cooler at night. We get 250 days of cold, dry, northern wind a year. Because of this we get a longer growing season, and our wines are less jammy than your standard Languedoc blockbuster; they have more ‘fraicheur’.”

In an area so big, there is a wide diversity of soils and climate. Quality and price also vary hugely. Cheap Corbières (the co-ops are still very strong here) is at best warm and satisfying, at worst thin and weedy. But you can find plenty of really good producers in the region, making very different styles of wine.

“On the one hand there are large estates making very good commercial wines, helping to promote the region and it’s wines. On the other hand there are a lot of smaller, artisan producers experimenting with more individual wines from specific sites. These wines are largely unknown outside France and some are very good,” Neville says.

Traditional Corbières is beefy and big, packed full of meaty, juicy dark fruits. Over the past decade, a more modern style has emerged, smooth and sophisticated although still quite full-bodied, with rich sweet fruits.

Neville is clearly of the traditional school. “We don’t make industrial wines, as many do locally; the oenologue tells them how to make the wine, then the marketing man designs the labels – and they all taste the same.

“Our wine is a cultural work. I want my wine to be a genuine wine; the third glass should be more interesting than the first. They probably need four to five years to show their best. They can be a little tough at first but they really do improve.”

Domaine Aonghusa produce three wines, only one a Corbières. The others are site-specific single-varietals, and carry the less prestigious IGP or Vin de Table designations. But they are every bit as good.

Neville is far from unique. Like much of the Languedoc, Corbières has a treasure-trove of exciting wines, both modern and old. The next time you take the A61 southwards, do a little research beforehand, and stop off in one of the villages to taste the wines. You may find some great wines to drink over your holidays. At the very least, you will discover an enchanting region. “It is a staggeringly beautiful area, Neville says.

In the meantime, seek out the wines in your local wine-shop. The sturdy power of Corbières is perfect with many winter dishes.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Château Hauterive Le Haut 2009, Corbières, 14%, €13.25-€13.50The Wilson family fought over the last drops of this delicious wine, always a good sign. Silky, smooth intense dark fruits with a light spiciness. An outstanding bargain at under €15. Stockists: Corkscrew, Dublin 2; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Liston's, Camden Street; Bin No. 9, Clonskeagh; Morton's, Ranelagh; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Wicklow Wine Co

Domaine Montmija Cru Signé 2008 Corbières, 13%, €13.50A more elegant style of Corbières with succulent, refined, ripe cherry fruits, and a seamless finish. It went perfectly with my lamb stew. Stockists: Daly's Drinks, Boyle; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Jayne's, Ennis; The Lord Mayor, Swords; Drinkstore, Dublin 7; Ardkeen, Waterford; 1601, Kinsale; Mac's, Limerick; O'Keeffe's, Ennis; Next Door outlets nationwide; Claudio's Wines, Newtownmountkennedy

Vavavoum! 2010, Castelmaure, Corbières, 14%, €14.50Castelmaure is a mini-co-op, producing a great range of well-made, modern Corbières. If you are in the area, it is well worth visiting its shop in the village of Embres et Castelmaure. The Vendange Humaines (€9.95) has featured here before; this time it is the turn of the Vavavoum!, a wine that explodes with smooth, young, ripe cherry fruits. Try it with lighter white and red meat dishes. Stockist: Terroirs, Donnybrook

Laval 2008, Domaine Aonghusa Corbières, 14.5%, €16.50A compelling wine with complex aromas of dried fruits and dark plums, and masses of hearty, warm, ripe fruits, balanced by a solid core of minerality and a long tannic finish. Savour it slowly over a beef casserole, with a good friend. Stockist: Karwig Wines, Carrigaline, Co Cork

Corbieres tasting

On November 5th, Terroirs in Donnybrook will hold a free tasting, open to all, of Corbières from the Caves de Castelmaure with Patrick de Marien, vigneron and président of the cave. It will run from 2-6pm.