Time to lighten up

Wines swing in and out of fashion. There was a time when nobody would drink anything but Chardonnay. However, the past decade has not been easy on this wonderful variety; I date it from the early noughties when the character Chardonnay first appeared in Footballer s’ Wives. Recently there have been signs of it making a welcome comeback – the grape that is.

It also seems possible that two other old favourites are starting to regain our affections. Muscadet and Beaujolais were the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio of their day. Those of you old enough will remember a time when no drinks party, soirée or dinner was complete without a bottle of Muscadet. It vied with Sancerre on restaurant wine lists as the most popular white wine.

At around the same time, a Fleurie (one of the leading villages in Beaujolais) was an essential part of every wine list, competing with Châteauneuf-du-Pape as our favourite red wine. And of course, the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau was celebrated every November.

Both have since fallen heavily from favour and many producers have gone out of business. As often happens, the market became flooded with very inferior cheap versions, and the better wines lost out. The problem was more deep-rooted than simply one of quality, Both Muscadet and Beaujolais represent a particular style of wine that has been out of fashion for a decade or more. Criticised as insipid and tasteless, we looked elsewhere for wines with more body and power.

Over the past five years, our preferences have been changing back; it seems many of us no longer want these super-charged alcoholic wines that were once so popular. Witness the arrival of ‘early harvest’ and other low-alcohol wines in our supermarkets, driven partly by concerns about health or weight, but also taste. Consumers are now looking for lighter, fresher wines. Both Beaujolais and Muscadet fit perfectly into this category.

Good Muscadet is one of the most delicious, refreshing glasses of white wine. Invigorating and zesty with a touch of saltiness, it is the perfect foil for all kinds of shellfish, oysters in particular. My own favourite Muscadet moment was on my stag weekend when a gang of us tucked into a mound of fresh seafood in Chez Youen in Baltimore, West Cork. Youen was from Nantes, the capital of Muscadet, and the only wines he listed were a Gros Plant (the younger brother of Muscadet) and Muscadet itself, supplemented by a few vintages of Daumas Gassac, as the Guibert family, proprietors of that estate, had a house nearby. Both wine and seafood were perfect.

If you are buying Muscadet, it is well worth spending a little extra for a bottle from one of the superior sub-regions. Sèvre-et-Maine is the largest, or Coteaux de la Loire or Côtes de Grand Lieu. Wines labelled ‘sur lie’ have been bottled without racking and should have a more complex flavour and possibly a slight pétillance too.

Beaujolais is chiefly remembered for Beaujolais Nouveau, another kickback to a different era. Good Beaujolais (usually Beaujolais Villages, from the better half of the appellation) is the most wonderful, light, refreshing drink. In summer it can be served cool rather than chilled at picnics – remember all those images of gingham tablecloths, wicker baskets filled with pâtés, cheeses and a crusty baguette? There was also a bottle of simple, fruity wine – it had to be Beaujolais.

However, good Beaujolais does a lot more than slake a summer thirst. I find it one of the most versatile food wines of all. The top crus, with their vibrant fruitiness, go very well with anything porky, including baked ham, bacon with parsley sauce and belly of pork. I also enjoy them with chicken dishes, especially roast chicken, Mediterranean roast vegetables, duck and even spring lamb. The top 10 villages or ‘crus’ of Beaujolais are entitled to use their own name on the label. All are situated in the more granitic soils to the north of the Beaujolais region. Each has its own distinctive style, ranging from light, delicate and fragrant to more powerful, richer wines.

The glory of good Beaujolais and Muscadet is that few ever go above 13 per cent in alcohol. That doesn’t mean they lack concentration; just that they are lighter and more refreshing on the palate. They make you want to take another sip. And then another.