Thinking inside the box

Wine boxes and self-fill, re-useable bottles are popular elsewhere, so why are we so reluctant to embrace them?

I HAVE VERY FOND memories of a college friend slowly squeezing the last few drops of wine from a collapsible silver bag, using skills known only to a country girl expert in milking cattle. In those days, every last drop counted. This was a bag-in-box wine, a new innovation at the time.

We go through huge quantities of quarter bottles of wine, a very expensive form of packaging, yet we ignore what could be the best option of all if you want to have a glass of wine whenever the mood takes you. Bag-in-box (or BiB as it is known) may not be the most glamorous way to serve wine, but it is probably the most reliable way of keeping it fresh, as well as being cost-effective. It would certainly make a lot of sense for pubs, wine bars and restaurants, where there is a big demand for wines by the glass.

BiB, invented in Australia, is an airtight bladder filled with wine, with a tap attached. It is cheaper as the producer does not have to pay for cork, capsule or bottle. As it is lighter and more compact, there are savings on transport costs too.

So why don’t we buy it? BiB has a poor public image, largely because it is generally used for inexpensive wine, although it doesn’t have to be so. In theory any wine destined for immediate consumption (probably more than 90 per cent) can be used. I am told a BiB Chablis 1er cru is made for the Swedish market. Peter Boland of Cases Wine Warehouse in Galway (who has developed a good trade in BiB) says “It is an idea waiting to happen. People will happily fill up a plastic bottle while on holiday in France, but would never consider in a million years doing it back home. We need a security blanket and are afraid we might be held up as cheap. Those who do buy it tend to have a good level of wine knowledge and confidence. We do get good sales around the Electric Picnic .”

Other countries do not share our reservations. BiB is very popular in Australia, Norway, and Sweden in particular, where it accounts for more than 50 per cent of wine sales. Swedish journalist Jerker Arrhenius says: "In other countries BiB is regarded as lower quality wine, but in general the Swedish think it about the same as from a bottle. The Swedish concept of Jantelagen(all about being equal to your neighbours) also played a big part in its success. If you open a bottle of wine you raise expectations, but if you pour a glass from a box no one gets too excited; for some people that is liberating."

One major drawback is that BiB typically has a shelf-life of 12 months from date of bottling, much shorter than for bottled wine. Some of the wines I saw on our supermarket shelves appeared to be a little past their best-before date.

Many importers point out that it can be quite difficult to source decent quality wine. However, On the Grapevine in Dalkey has come up with a novel way of overcoming our reluctance. They offer customers wine dispensed from a wooden wine cask in the shop. Inside the barrel is a 10-litre bladder of wine. There is a revolving choice of one red and one white wine at €10 per litre or €5 for a half-litre. The same wine would cost €10 for a 75cl bottle. “There has been a great reaction so far, partly the novelty value, but also perhaps because customers have seen the same thing in wine shops and wineries all over France,” says Pamela Cooney. They have plans to offer the same service to other independent retailers.

Otherwise, the range of BiB available is limited, and mostly very cheap. You may actually be drinking it without even knowing it – many price-fighting wines from the New World are shipped in giant bladders, encased in 40ft containers, and then bottled on arrival in Europe.

Domaine Grauzan Chardonnay 2010, Vin de pays d'Oc, 13%, €10 per litre or € 10 per bottleThis is a very attractive, fruity Chardonnay, with good crisp acidity. A perfect everyday quaffer. Stockist: On the Grapevine, Dalkey

Les Coteaux de Neffiès, Coteaux du Languedoc 2009, 13.5%, €10 per litre or €10 per bottle A Grenache/Syrah blend, this is a light, young glugger, with a decent amount of fruit and light tannins on the finish. Stockist: On the Grapevine, Dalkey

Namaqua Dry White Wine Crisp Fruity, South Africa, 13%, €18.99 for three litres, the equivalent of €4.75 per bottleNamaqua is the biggest-selling South African wine in the UK, all of it in BiB. The white is light and dry, with more fruit than you would expect at this price. A good budget party option. Stockist: Superquinn

Namaqua Dry Red Wine, Soft Fruity, South Africa, 13.5%, €19.09 for three litres, equivalent of €4.77 per bottleAs with the white, a light rounded fruity red with no hard edges. Stockist: Superquinn

Arcania Vino Blanco da Tavola, 12.5%, €9.50 per litreFrom the Friuli region, this is a very fresh, crisp, white with fresh pear fruits. Made from 60 per cent Pinot Bianco and 40 per cent Friulano and it's also organic. Stockist: Sheridans Cheesemongers, Carnaross. Also available by the glass in The Tide Full Inn, Kinvara; Eno Bar Grill, Dundalk; Coppinger Row, Dublin

Cantina Ercina Rosso 2009, Sicily, 12.5%, €9.50 per litreMade primarily from Nero d'Avola, this has lovely swarthy, ripe dark fruits, an earthy edge and a good finish. A great everyday red. Stockist: Sheridans Cheesemongers, Carnaross, or by the bottle in Sheridans shops (you can bring your own container, or buy one from them). Also available by the glass in the venues listed above.

Beer of the week

Brewdog 5 A.M. Saint Red Ale, 5%, €2.35-€2.55Brewdog dosen't do bland, but this is one of its more subtle offerings. It still has plenty of flavour. A good bitter hoppiness right the way through, with some zesty citrus, balanced by a broad rich maltiness. A good medium- to full-bodied ale with real character. Stockists: O'Briens; Molloy's Liquor Stores; Chill, Limerick; Fine Wines, Galway, Limerick and Dublin; Bradley's, Cork; 1601, Kinsale; Cooper's, Cahir; Deveney's, Dundrum; Holland's, Bray; Redmond's, Ranelagh; McHugh's, Kilbarrack and Artane; Drink Store, Manor Street; Brady's, Shankill; Next Door, Harold's Cross, Kimmage, and James Street; Worldwide Wines in Waterford. Also available on draught in Holland's, Bray, Against the Grain, Wicklow Street; L Mulligan Grocer, Dublin; Spirit Store, Dundalk; Bierhaus, Cork and The Salthouse Galway.