Spanish trailblazer strikes again

Alvaro Palacios has changed the fortunes of no less than three Spanish wine regions, writes JOHN WILSON

THE SPANISH WINE business has produced a number of strong individuals over the years, each determined to make a name by bringing their local region to international attention. One thinks of Miguel Torres in Catalunya and Alejandro Fernandez in Ribero del Duero. The most recent addition is Alvaro Palacios (above). Although still shy of 50, he has re-invented, or played a major role in the resurgence of no less than three regions; Bierzo in northwest Spain, Priorat in Catalunya, as well as his home territory of the Rioja Baja. He is now one of the best-known and most respected Spanish wine makers.

Palacios was one of nine children, and so seemed unlikely to play a role in the family estate of Bodegas Palacios Remondo. Instead, he left home to study winemaking at Bordeaux University, and with the Bordeaux firm of Jean-Pierre Moueix, producers of a host of renowned wines, including the legendary Château Pétrus. Here he learnt that well-chosen single-vineyard sites could produce wines that offered unique flavours and quality. Convinced that the way to international recognition for Spain lay in its traditional grapes and regions, Palacios dedicated himself to re-discovering the ancient vineyards of Spain.

Priorat, or Priory, takes its name from a group of seven villages that once supplied the monastery of Scala Dei, run by the Carthusian monks for six centuries in the wild mountains to the south-east of Barcelona. The winding, vertiginous slate slopes (known as llicorella) are home to ancient Garnacha and Samsó (Carignan) vines used to produce minute quantities of grapes to make the deeply coloured, intensely flavoured wines that are Priorat. Now, there is also Cabernet and Syrah.

In the late 1980s winemaker René Barbier invited a group of five young winemakers to Priorat to create five separate Clos, each made from the same grapes, using the same winemaking facilities. The resulting wines took the world by storm, and Priorat, where vineyards had been slowly dwindling away, became Spain’s new hot region. Palacios now produces his own range of wines from Priorat, including L’Ermita, one of the most expensive and sought-after wines of Spain, from a single two-hectare vineyard.

Palacios then returned to his home town of Alfaro, in the Rioja Baja, the most southerly sub-region of Rioja. Garnacha grown here is bigger warmer and rounder, and is traditionally used to add oomph to the more elegant Tempranillo drawn from the other two sub-regions. A traditional Rioja blend typically contains around 70 per cent Tempranillo and 20 per cent Garnacha, the remainder from two other varieties, Mazuelo and Graciano.

In recent years, Tempranillo has become the most fashionable grape in Rioja, and there have been attempts to plant it in Rioja Baja. Palacios disapproves, saying “it doesn’t grow well down here”. He prefers Mourvèdre, “the original backbone” and has plans to reintroduce it. But above all, he wants people to respect Garnacha from the Rioja Baja as a style in its own right. His wines contain at least 50 per cent of that variety.

In 1999, Alvaro Palacios set up a winery with his cousin Ricardo Pérez Palacios in the village of Corullón in Bierzo, a forgotten region in the north-west. The wines here combine the lightness of Galician reds (which are often a little too refreshing) with the power and richness of the Duero further east. The grape is Mencía, unheard of elsewhere. In addition to the Petalos included below, they make a Villa de Corullón, and four single-vineyard wines.

Alvaro Palacios is a single-minded, at times obsessive man. Unlike many well-known winemakers, he has turned down lucrative offers to provide consultancy services to other producers.

He is obsessed with Garnacha. “I love Garnacha that lives, with acidity like a white wine.” He reckons the best grows in Priorat, and has planted it in his L’Ermita vineyards. He would, he says, prefer to make less wine, but better wine. Fame does have its price. The Palacios Finca Dofi now sells for around €60, and L’Ermita (both from Priorat) for €200-€600 a bottle. Fortunately, there are plenty of more reasonably priced wines too.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

La Vendimia 2010 Palacios Remondo, 14%, €11.99A wine of the week before in these pages. I find the fragrant, soft, supple, lightly spicy cherry fruits of the Vendemia quite irresistible. Stockists: Barry's, Midleton; Carpenter's, Castleknock; Donnybrook Fair; The Grapevine, Dublin 9; Stack's, Listowel; O'Driscoll's, Cork

La Montesa 2007 Rioja Crianza Palacios Remondo, 14%, €15.99Smooth, velvety, cherry fruits cloaked in cinnamon spice, with a nice freshness too; slightly pithy, lightly tannic finish. Perfect with a roast of lamb. Stockists: The Coach House, Dublin 6; D6 Wines, Dublin 6W; The Grape Vine, Dublin 9; Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; KCR Stores, Dublin 6; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Ardkeen Stores, Waterford

Camins del Priorat 2008, Priorat, Alvaro Palacios, 14.5%, €17.99A bigger wine with a floral nose, ripe blackcurrant and strawberry fruits, given structure by a strong mineral element. Smooth and slightly peppery, with a dry finish. Stockists: Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Jus de Vin, Portmarknock; On the Grape Vine, Dalkey

Pétalos 2008, Bierzo, Descendientes de J. Palacios, 14%, €17.99Perfumed floral nose; ripe dark fruits with a distinct savoury touch, good acidity and some fine tannins. Lighter in style, but a really refreshing wine despite the high alcohol. Stockists: Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Martin's, Dublin 3; Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; O'Driscoll's, Cork; Ardkeen Stores, Waterford; Redmond's, Ranelagh

TWO UNDER €12

Oriol des Aspres Negre, 2010, Emporadà, Spain, 13.5%, €11.99This has plenty of classic, dark Catalan fruits, with a lovely mineral twist, plums, and a very decent finish. Stockists: Deveney's, Dundrum and Rathmines; Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; O'Donovan's, Cork; Martin's, Fairview; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock

Marks Spencer Chianti Colli Senesi 2009, 13%, €11.79This is a lovely, good-value Chianti with all the right attributes. It has light, juicy, ripe cherry fruits, and is easy-drinking, tangy and supple. It went perfectly with a hastily made Pasta Primavera. Stockist: Marks Spencer

Tasting dates

Kelly’s Resort Hotel in Rosslare will hold a series of wine tastings on November 6th-10th with wine producer Pierre Gaillard, whose family own vineyards throughout the Northern Rhône as well as Faugères and the Roussillon, followed by a tasting on the 11th with Oscar Bayo Contel of Gonzalez Byass, one of the great sherry producers. See kellys.ie for details. Ballymaloe House will hold a wine dinner featuring both the wines and olive oils from Cappezzana, Selvapiana and Fontodi, three top Tuscan estates, on November 9th. Winemakers from each estate will be present. Tickets are €95. Contact 021-4652531, or see ballymaloe.ie for further details.