Perfect weather for Rhône rangers

There's nothing like a beef casserole and a rich Côtes du Rhône on a cold winter's evening. But which appellation should you choose, asks JOHN WILSON

A DECENT Côtes du Rhône is always welcome on a cold winter’s evening; warming and rounded, it makes for a very satisfying drink. Combined with anything robust, such as a beef casserole (my current obsession is beef cheeks; cheap, tender, and full of flavour), it provides great internal central heating.

The appellation Côtes du Rhône covers an immense area, and a multitude of sins. Much of the wine, it should be said, is fairly ordinary. But then this is one of the largest appellations in France, beaten only in terms of volume by Bordeaux. Although it comes in all three colours, red makes up the vast majority. The dominant grape variety is Grenache, usually given backbone by a good dollop of Syrah and/or Mourvèdre, and also sometimes Cinsault and Carignan too. Grenache is a very forgiving grape, and even the worst Côtes du Rhône never seems quite as offensive as an inferior Bordeaux or Burgundy. It simply tastes of very little at all.

As with most French appellations, a little understanding is needed. The Rhône has four quality levels. Côtes du Rhône is the first step on the ladder. One level up are 95 communes that can call themselves Côtes du Rhône Villages; above these are 17 communes that can append their name to this, such as Côtes du Rhône Villages – Sablet. Then at the very top, you have the crus, or villages permitted to use only their own name. Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Châteauneuf-du-Pape are three such examples.

But today we look at Côtes du Rhône, nominally the most basic. The vast majority of Côtes du Rhône comes from a broad swathe of land spreading out in a large triangle from Montélimar southwards towards the Mediterranean Sea.

In Ireland, we see plenty from the big boys: Jaboulet, Guigal, Chapoutier and others, as well as a lot of indifferent cheap stuff in the supermarkets under a host of names, one exception being the Superquinn Classic Collection Côtes du Rhône, one of the greatest bargains around. But there is also a host of small producers, some making excellent wine, often at very competitive prices. For today’s article, I have focused on these. Whereas big production Côtes du Rhône may be sourced from all over the region, others come from specific parts of the Rhône, and can taste markedly different. A Côtes du Rhône from the northern Rhône will be Syrah-based, and therefore light and savoury. Further south, I find the vineyards to the west of the river, where the climate is marginally cooler, to be a bit fresher and fruitier than those to the east. Sadly, reading the label won’t help you discover which sub-region the wine comes from, as it will merely declare Côtes du Rhône. On top of this you can also come across some very posh Côtes du Rhône, made by top producers with a few hectares of vines lying outside of their best vineyards in the great names such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Hermitage. As with basic Bourgogne Rouge in Burgundy, these will be more expensive than the supermarket versions, but still offer very good value.

As you will have gathered, Côtes du Rhône is a very mixed bag. However, it can offer great value, and is unlikely really to offend. For this reason, it is not a bad choice if you are eating out.

Below are four very different versions of Côtes du Rhône, three from estates that also produce more expensive wines from the top appellations. The fourth is blended and imported by Ireland's Rhône Ranger, Simon Tyrrell (see thewinestore.iefor a comprehensive list of all that is good from this region). Put together, the four wines offer some very different individual interpretations of a lowly appellation.

Côtes du Rhône 'Vignes Parallèles' 2010, Simone Joseph 13.5% €10.95This is a delightful Côtes du Rhône with ripe, perfumed aromas, juicy, sweet strawberry fruits and a distinctive peppery kick on the finish. Supple and easy, this would make a great mid-week glugger. Made with organic grapes from the western part of the Rhône.

Stockists: Drinks Store, Dublin 7; The Kitchen Project, Clonakilty; thewinestore.ie.

Côtes du Rhône 2009, Clos Petite Bellane 13.5% €15-16The property is situated in Visan, an area that typically produces fairly big, powerful wines. However, as the Clos Petite Bellane vineyards are on a 400-metre plateau, the wines are unusually elegant and fresh for the region. I have written about the excellent white wine from this estate before, but the red is good too. Lifted violet aromas, fresh red cherry and raspberry fruits, and a lovely ripe finish.

Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Liston's, Camden St; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Cabot Co, Westport, cabotandco.com; The Wine Room, One Pery Square, Limerick.

Côtes du Rhône 2010, Domaine Roche-Audran 14.5% €14.25Although from the same commune as the Clos Petite Bellane, above, this biodynamic is a completely different animal. It is big, powerful and hugely concentrated, with swarthy, ripe, dark fruits, and tremendous length. You can almost feel the heat of the sun beating down on the grapes. I tried my bottle over two days and it continued to evolve all the time. It went down a storm with my beef casserole, and the following day with some cheese.

Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Lilac Wines, D3; Sweeney’s, Glasnevin; Liston’s, Camden St; Lilliput stores, Stoneybatter; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; La Touche Wines 4U, Greystones; The Hole in the Wall, D7; Red Island Wines, Skerries; Baggot St Wines; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh.

Côtes du Rhône 2009, Domaine Saint Gayan 14% €13.25Domaine Saint Gayan have vineyards in Gigondas and Rasteau, but this wine comes from old vines mainly in the commune of Sablet. This is a more substantial wine altogether, full-bodied with robust earthy dark fruits and good depth. This would repay decanting for an hour or so before serving. I would certainly go for a hearty dish featuring red meat or game.

Stockists: Daly’s Off Licences, Boyle; The Parting Glass, Enniskerry; O’Donovan’s Off Licence, Cork; The Hole in the Wall Off Licence, Dublin 7; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Ardkeen, Waterford; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny; 1601 Off Licence, Kinsale.

Winners

Congratulations to Jimmy and Aidan Redmond of Redmond's in Ranelagh, Dublin 6 on winning the Noffla Off-licence of the Year 2012 against some very stiff competition. Wine Specialist of the Year went to Gibney's, Malahide; Spirit Specialist to The Wine Centre, Kilkenny, and Beer Specialist to McHugh's, Malahide Road.