Matches made in autumn

What to drink with risotto, game, bacon and cabbage? Here are some food and wine matches for the cooler days ahead, writes JOHN WILSON

SUMMER IS OVER. Children are back in school, and the days are definitely getting shorter. There is a slight chill in the mornings too. I love both autumn and spring, when the light is at its best, and nature is changing daily. I cheer myself up by launching into autumnal foods and wines. This is the season when many fruits and vegetables are at their very best.

In mainland Europe, the grape harvest is in full swing. In most wine regions, this is a nervous time for growers, but also an excuse for great celebrations as the harvest is safely gathered in.

So, which wines go with autumnal food? Below are a few of my favourite autumn dishes, and the wines to go with them. Some are at the more expensive end of the scale; these are wines to uncork when you feel the need to spoil yourself. I also include a few budget options, for those reeling from back-to-school expenses.

Bacon, cabbage and parsley sauce

This is almost our national dish, so a stout would seem the obvious choice. Why not make it a Dungarvan special with a bottle of the excellent Dungarvan Stout with Paul Flynn’s recipe for bacon and cabbage soup? In Alsace, they would match their more sumptuous version of bacon and cabbage, Choucroute garni, with either a rich, floral Gewürztraminer or (my favourite) a steely, dry Riesling.

Black Rock Stout, Dungarvan Brewing Company, 4.3%, €3 for a 500ml bottleA stout to convert Guinness drinkers to something with a little more flavour. It is smooth, with roasted coffee and barley and a touch of dark chocolate, finishing dry. A beer to savour slowly, preferably served not too cold. Stockists: Widely available in independent off-licences, including O'Briens and O'Donovan's in Cork. See dungarvanbrewingcompany.com for a list of stockists

Riesling Schlossberg 2007 Alsace Grand Cru, Domaine Weinbach, 13.5%, €47.95Domaine Weinbach, run by Colette Faller and her two daughters, produces some of the finest wines in Alsace. This is expensive but magnificent, a superb balance of crisp, pure apple fruits, with plenty of texture and body, and excellent length. Stockists: Redmond's, Ranelagh; Thomas's, Foxrock; The Wicklow Arms, Delgany

Mushroom risotto

This is one of the best risotto dishes, and my all-time favourite comfort food. Fresh wild mushrooms are great, but flat-cap cultivated, with some dried ceps and good chicken stock, are cheaper and every bit as good. In the past, I have matched the earthy notes of mature Pinot Noir with mushroom risotto, but every book I read suggests Barolo or Barberesco, both made from Nebbiolo. Sadly neither come cheap, but O’Briens has a reasonably-priced alternative.

La Piuma 2010, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, 13%, €9.99This is a juicy, ripe wine, with soft, dark cherry fruits, and a rounded finish. Great everyday drinking with all manner of foods, but try it with risotto. Stockist: O'Briens

Ascheri Barolo 2006, 14%, €29.99Barolo can be an acquired taste, but it is worth persevering as it is one of the greatest wines in Italy. The Ascheri opened out beautifully over an evening, so I would recommend decanting it before dinner. Fragrant aromas of violets and dark cherries, an intense palate of redcurrants and dark cherries, with savoury liquorice and tar, finishing dry with firm tannins. A classic Barolo. Stockist: O'Briens

Shoulder of lamb

I prefer lamb in the autumn when it has so much more flavour. Slowly roasted, stuffed with loads of garlic and anchovies, a shoulder makes a great foil for Bordeaux and other Cabernets, or a Rioja.

Carmen Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Chile, 13.5%, €11.49This is a little bit oaky at first, but it opens out to reveal some very tasty blackcurrant fruits, good acidity, and light tannins on the finish. Stockists: Tesco; Dunnes Stores; SuperValu; Centra; Superquinn; Joyce's, Knocknacarra

Château Moulin de Mallet 2009, Bordeaux, 14%, €14.95A more modern style of Bordeaux, rich in cassis, with a classy spiciness, good length and a tannic backbone. A well-made, and very well-priced wine. Stockists: Mitchell Son, CHQ Building, IFSC, Dublin 1 and Glasthule, Co Dublin; Bin No 9, Goatstown; Marlay Wines, Rathfarnham

Game

It is too early for some game birds, but the venison and wild-duck season has started and it is now relatively easy to find these in our shops. Plainly roasted mallard or teal go really well with pure Syrah or Pinot Noir. You can push the boat out with either and serve the very best; just avoid any sauces with too much fruit or vinegar. With Pinot, a mature Burgundy would be my first choice, but not the cheapest option. New Zealand comes second. For the Syrah, the Northern Rhône is the best option. A mature Côte Rôtie would be excellent, but the less expensive wine below will also do very nicely

Volnay Clos de la Cave 2009 Domaine François Charles, 13%, €26.95Elegance personified. This has a lifted floral nose, smooth ripe cherry fruits, and very good length. Restrained and subtle, it is a captivating Pinot Noir. Stockists: Liston's, Camden Street; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Wicklow Wine Co; Probus Wines, Fenian Street; Corkscrew, Chatham Street; Terroirs, Donnybrook

Syrah Les Hauts de Monteillet 2009, Domaine de Monteillet, 12%, €15From the Northern Rhône, a delicious light Syrah, all black pepper and cool, damson plums, with a lovely savoury twist and a dry finish. Not big, but certainly beautiful. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; La Touche Wines, Greystones; The Vintry, Rathgar; thewinestore.ie

Fruit tart

Since eating a wonderful peach tarte tatin in France earlier this year, I have been experimenting with different fruits. Apple is traditional, but stone fruits make a great change. A rich Sauternes will do nicely, but the wine below worked very well for me.

William Downie Petit Manseng 2009, King Valley, Australia, 12.5%, €37.99I love Jurançon, a wonderfully refreshing sweet wine from the southwest of France made from the little-known Petit Manseng grape. This version, from one of the rising stars of Australia, has some sweetness, largely hidden by the zippy acidity, plenty of pineapple and citrus fruits and a slightly tannic finish. Stockists: thewineshop.ie; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street; Baggot Street Wines