Lies, damned lies and wine labels

Alcohol levels on wine bottles are often misleading, making it hard for drinkers to stay within the recommended weekly limit of 14 standard units for women and 21 for men, writes JOHN WILSON

HOW MUCH WINE do you drink? Despite our best intentions, at times many of us (myself included) probably drink a little more than we should. The HSE recommends that women should drink no more than 14 standard drinks a week. For men, it is 21 standard drinks. This should be spread out over the week, rather than a single sitting. Under these guidelines, a bottle of wine contains seven glasses of wine at 12.5 per cent alcohol. But does it mean that a woman can happily consume two bottles of wine over the course of a week and a man three?

It can be quite complicated to work out how much alcohol you are actually consuming. The current fashion for large goldfish-bowl glasses may help us enjoy the full aromas, complexity and depth of a wine, but they should be served only a third – or at the very most half – full. Wines served by the glass in restaurants vary considerably, and most customers demand a full glass, no matter the size. The HSE points out that home measures tend to be even bigger than those served in restaurants.

In addition, most wines these days contain considerably more than 12.5 per cent alcohol. Levels in wine have been consistently rising over the past 20 years. Whereas in the past, 12 or 13 per cent was the norm, our preference for richer, more rounded wines means that a majority now register at 13.5 or even 14 per cent, with no shortage of wines at a generous 15 per cent. Even then, this is not entirely accurate. EU regulations allow for a 0.5 per cent tolerance either way, so wine labelled 13 per cent could actually be either 12.5 or 13.5 per cent. Not terribly helpful.

Various studies have shown that producers consistently opt to understate alcoholic content, as they believe we prefer to buy wines with lower levels; apparently we buy low and drink high.

It was through a chance remark by an Australian winemaker last year that I discovered recent EU regulations now allow an even greater tolerance. Certain wines, including those classified as sparkling, semi-sparkling, wines made from over-ripe grapes, liqueur wines and bottles stored for three years are now allowed to be 0.8 per cent out. So a wine labelled 14 per cent could in fact be almost 15 per cent – a considerable difference.

Even allowing for this generous latitude, I am not convinced the labels are always truthful. All non-EU wines should be tested in laboratories prior to shipment. For European wines it is the local governing body that is responsible. But talk quietly to a winemaker, and many will admit that what is written on the label is inaccurate. Some use the same labels year after year, over-printing the vintage. Are we to believe that the alcohol level stays the same each vintage? One French winemaker admitted privately to me that, although his wine states 15 per cent on the label, it is in fact a whopping 16.8 per cent. Obviously the local authorities are less than vigilant in his region.

There can be a commercial interest in understating true alcohol levels. Once a wine goes over 15 per cent, it is classified as fortified wine, and in this jurisdiction a higher rate of duty will apply. It falls to the Department of Agriculture to monitor the labelling of alcohol levels. I am not convinced that they see this as their first priority.

Alcohol levels do make a real difference. A small 100ml glass of wine at 12.5 per cent may equate to one unit, but a quarter bottle of wine (as served in many pubs) at 15 per cent is 2.25 standard drinks. Two rounds of this and you are over your daily recommended limit.

Drinkaware.ie, funded by the drinks industry, has a useful standard drink calculator that will help you determine how much you are drinking. In addition, some of the larger retailers now list the number of standard drinks contained in each bottle on the label. Provided, of course, that the label is accurate in the first place.

LOWER ALCOHOL WINES

I am not a fan of wines that advertise themselves as “low alcohol”. Often the grapes have been picked far too early, or the alcohol has been artificially lowered, leading to confected flavours. But cool-climate regions, such as the Loire, Germany, northern Italy and northeast Spain, often produce naturally lighter wines. Australia, despite its reputation for big ripe wines, has a number of lighter wines to offer, including Riesling and Semillon.

I also tasted a few biodynamic wines from Cullen Estate in western Australia that were naturally lower in alcohol.

HIGH ALCOHOL WINES

By contrast, higher alcohol wines tend to come from warmer areas – the southern regions of France, Italy and Spain, and the sunny parts of Australia, Chile, Argentina and South Africa. Also included, of course, are fortified wines: those that have been given a boost from an addition of grape brandy.

WINES OF THE WEEK

Château Haut-Garriga 2010, Bordeaux Blanc, 12%, €9.75A wonderful fresh, crisp, dry white, made entirely from Semillon (and therefore Sauvignon-free) with zesty lemon, green apple and melon fruits, finishing bone dry. It is low in alcohol, and would make a perfect partner for seafood or as a mouthwatering aperitif. Stockist: Wines Direct, Mullingar, winesdirect.ie

Les Sablons Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil 2008, Langlois-Château, 12%, €13.99I am a huge fan of Cabernet Franc from the Loire. This is a light, refreshing red with toothsome redcurrant fruits that should be served cool rather than chilled, with cold meats, charcuterie and pâtés.

Stockist: O’Briens

Longview Devils Elbow Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Adelaide Hills, 15%, €17.99A lovely big hearty wine, packed with ripe cassis and dark chocolate fruits and hints of mint. Crack open to accompany a steak or roast game.

Stockist: O’Briens

Marks Spencer Dry Old Amontillado Sherry, 18.5%, €11.49 per half bottleMarks Spencer very helpfully lists the standard units per drink and per bottle on all their wines. I hope the relatively high alcohol on this wine will not deter you from trying it. It is a wonderful sherry, full of beautifully defined flavours of grilled nuts, dried fruit and orange peel, finishing dry. Serve with a consommé (as in the film Babette's Feast) or enjoy a small glass after dinner with a plate of nuts and blue cheese. Stockist: Marks Spencer