Joy of the Bordeaux châteaux

The classification system in Saint Émilion is far more democratic than many appellations, with reclassification ensuring quality, writes JOHN WILSON

ST ÉMILION GRAND CRU is another of what I call “suit wines”, popular with expense-account business diners (if such a creature still exists). It also seems to be present on the wine lists of virtually every Chinese restaurant in the country. The wines of St Émilion are forward, generous and opulent when compared to those of the Médoc. It is no surprise that we have always been partial to them in this country.

The wine may be well-known, but is often misunderstood. As Saint-Émilion is situated on the right bank of Bordeaux, the wines generally include a high percentage of Merlot. They are therefore easier to drink in their youth, although the best wines can age for a decade or more. While neighbouring Pomerol is based entirely on Merlot, St Émilion is typically a blend of Cabernet Franc (Cabernet Sauvignon doesn’t ripen as reliably this far inland) and Merlot.

The greatest St Émilion, Château Cheval Blanc, is made up of almost 60 per cent Cabernet Franc and can therefore lay claim to being the finest example of the variety in the world. The town of Saint-Émilion is small and picturesque, with narrow cobbled streets, usually packed with tourists winding their way around the wine shops and restaurants.

In the 1990s, Saint-Émilion became the happening place in Bordeaux, with a group of garagiste winemakers making tiny quantities of super-ripe, lush wines which sold for astronomical prices. Some of this philosophy has filtered down to the lesser wines, although most still retain a characteristic dry restraint.

The classification system for St Émilion is very complicated and often criticised. More than half of the wine produced is labelled Grand Cru. But unlike other regions, Grand Cru is not the best wine of the region. Grand Cru Classé and Premier Grand Cru Classé are both superior appellations. Within the Premier Grand Crus Classés, two properties, Château Cheval-Blanc and Château Ausone have their own super-category.

Confused? You are not alone. At least in Saint Émilion there is an attempt at democracy. Unlike the Grands Crus of the Médoc, all of the châteaux are subjected to reclassification every 10 years, a lengthy process involving a committee studying everything from the wine, the soil, vineyard practices, and winemaking.

There are frequent disagreements, as demotion will lead to a decrease in price and status. The most recent classification, in 2006, was dropped following legal action by four producers who had been demoted, and the 1996 classification reinstated for the moment. There are currently 13 Premiers Grands Crus, 46 Grand Crus Classés, and more than 200 Grands Crus, a ridiculously large number. In fact, there is more Grand Cru wine produced than basic St Émilion.

Most Bordeaux buffs would agree that two properties stand out above all others; Château Ausone and Château Cheval-Blanc. Ausone went through a rough patch for a number of years, but apparently is back on song. Cheval-Blanc, on the other hand, has been consistent, and is certainly among the great wines of the world.

However, you can expect to pay a minimum of €50 for a Grand Cru Classé, and more than €100 for the top wines. The bargains lie further down the chain. Many canny buyers look to the satellite appellations of St Georges, Lussac, Montagne and Puisseguin, outlying villages which carry the prefix of Saint-Émilion and can produce very good wines in the same style, or to the Côtes de Bordeaux. The Côtes du Castillon, which lies on the eastern edge of Saint Émilion, has very similar soils. But within the appellation there is no shortage of very good, reasonably priced wines, with either the St Émilion and Grand Cru status.

Soil is a key element to quality as well as commitment of the owner. A steep solid limestone escarpment drops away from the village of St Émilion, and here you will find a clutch of top properties including Châteaux Ausone, Belair, Magdelaine and Pavie. This is known as the “Côtes”. In the far northwestern corner lies the “graves”, looser, deep gravel soils more akin to those of neighbouring Pomerol. Here you will find Cheval-Blanc, La Dominique, and a number of châteaux with Figeac in their name. These two sub-regions produce the greatest wines. Otherwise, as so often in Bordeaux, price is a relatively reliable indicator. A cheap St Émilion is unlikely to thrill, and you are probably better off looking to the neighbouring areas. Expect to pay €20-30 for a decent Grand Cru, although those with the best reputation will cost more. For my tasting, I sought out 13 examples of St Émilion, nearly all Grand Crus, mostly priced between €20 and €30.

Château Mangan La Gaffelière 2006, St Émilion Grand Cru, 13%, €22.15Very nicely balanced wine with broad, meaty dark fruits and light, dry tannins on the finish. More savoury than sweet, but a very attractive well-made wine. Stockist: Wines Direct by mail-order, winesdirect.ie

Haut Roc Blanquet 2004, St Émilion Grand Cru, 12.5%, €23.99This is the second wine of Château Belair, one of the top châteaux of St Émilion. Lightly fragrant, mature nose with some vanilla and crushed leaves; smooth silken red fruits with good length and no tannins. Stockist: Greenacres, Wexford by mail-order, greenacres.ie

Château Fleur de Jague 2006, St Émilion Grand Cru, 13.5%, €26.95Slightly funky on the nose when first opened, but a very enjoyable wine with broad, earthy, dark fruits, good acidity, and a soft easy finish. Stockists: Wicklow Wine Co by mail-order, wicklowwineco.ie; Probus Wines, Fenian Street, Dublin 2, and Oughterard, Co Galway

Château Trimoulet 2005, St Émilion Grand Cru, 13%, €33.50The quality of the 2005 vintage shows through in this wonderful structured wine. Concentrated, sweet ripe fruits, plenty of grip and excellent length. It improved with time, too, so I would suggest decanting it before serving. I also tasted the second wine of this property, the Cuvée Emilius 2006, which was very good value at €22.95. Stockists: SuperValu; McCabe's, Blackrock; Donnybrook Fair, Donnybrook; Bradley's, Cork; Molloy's Liquor Stores

Two under €12

Selbach Riesling 2008 Mosel, 10.5%, €9.99 A lovely light Riesling, with floral aromas, refreshing apple fruits and an off-dry finish. The perfect aperitif. Stockists: O'Briens

Croix d'Or Pinot Noir 2008, VDQS Saint-Pourcain, 12%, €10.99-€11.99

I really enjoyed this Pinot Noir from one of the lesser-known parts of the Loire valley. Light and juicy, with clean redcurrant and strawberry fruits, and a surprising concentration for a wine at this price. Stockists: O'Sullivan's, Blarney; Douglas and Ballincollig; Holland's, Bray; O'Leary's, Cootehill, Co Cavan; The Vintry, Rathgar; Deveney's, Rathmines