Hunting great whites

The Languedoc-Roussillon region has bucked the trend of aperitifs to become a great source of decent, inexpensive white wine, writes JOHN WILSON

BANGS PER BUCK, few places can beat the Languedoc-Roussillon for red wines. To me they offer better value and more interest than any other wine region in the world. At the cheaper end, there are plenty of medium-bodied, ripe, fruit-filled glugging wines; as you pay a little more, so the wines become increasingly sophisticated and complex. Most of the expensive wines still offer great value compared to the lofty prices charged in Bordeaux and Burgundy. I will cover the red wines in the autumn and this week focus on the white wines of Languedoc-Roussillon. In the past, these were clearly inferior to the red wines. This generally warm and sunny climate is better suited to red-wine production, and the region still makes far more red than white.

Traditionally, the only white varieties that were grown provided grapes for vermouth-style aperitifs or, in the case of Muscat, fortified sweet wines. But in recent years, world demand for white wines has increased, and modern technology and know-how has made it easier to produce decent white wine.

Large parts of the Languedoc region have now become a source of inexpensive Sauvignon and Chardonnay, usually bottled under the IGP Pays d’Oc umbrella. Generally, I find the Chardonnays to be the better of the two. But in addition to these, the area now has a host of other grape varieties – some indigenous, some imported from other regions – that are responsible for some increasingly interesting wines. Styles vary hugely from light, fresh and crisp to more potent, opulent, textured wines. The latter style can be excellent, a wonderful mix of herbs, rich melon or peach fruits, sometimes slightly honeyed but still retaining a freshness. Some can be a bit too powerful for drinking solo, but make great food wines, particularly with fish dishes with tomatoes and herbs.

Many of the familiar appellations, such as Minervois, Coteaux du Languedoc and Corbières, cover white as well as red wines, but the whites are always in the minority. Then there are also a number of appellations reserved exclusively for white wine; Picpoul de Pinet, served in seafood restaurants along the harbour in Sète, near Montpellier, is often described as the “Muscadet of the south”, perfect with shellfish. Further west, very close to Carcassonne, lies Limoux, source of sparkling wine as well as some good crisp, dry whites.

As for the grape varieties, just about everything can be grown, and just about everything is. But as a broad generalisation, I find the local varieties provide good but simple, rounded, fruity wines, whereas those imported from the Rhône can have real interest. Most are made up of more than one grape variety, each adding something to the blend. Bourboulenc, if picked at the right time, has good, crisp acidity and pleasant melon fruits; Grenache Blanc is richer with stone fruits; Roussanne tends to be delicate and aromatic, while Marsanne takes on wonderful flavours of nuts and honey with age. In addition, there is also Rolle, better known as Vermentino, currently enjoying a certain vogue, as is Viognier, not forgetting Terret Noir, Terret Gris, Maccabeu and many others. Such a broad palette gives the winemaker plenty of scope to experiment, and this is the most dynamic wine region of France. Filled with young producers trying to make a name, it makes for some fascinating wines. Some of the more enterprising growers will list the grape varieties they use on the back label, but many others don’t. A quick Google will often provide the necessary information. Most of the larger wine producers have not abandoned all of the traditional varieties in favour of Chardonnay and Sauvignon. The smaller estates certainly offer a huge choice of interesting wines. Most of our supermarkets offer several, and your local wine shop should certainly be able to suggest a few options. Best of all, most of them are cheap. There are plenty of decent, everyday wines at €8-10, and some exciting wines at €10-15, including the four below.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Terre a Verre 2011, La Clape 12.5% €10.75Made from a blend of Bourboulenc, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, this is a nicely textured wine with yellow stone fruits, and a crisp, dry finish. Perfect with richer fish, chicken or pork dishes. Stockists: Mac's, Limerick; Searson's, Monkstown, Co Dublin; Next Door Corcoran's, New Ross, Co Wexford.

Château Hauterive Le Haut 2010 Corbières 14% €12.50Made from a blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Maccabeu, this has aromas of herb and peach, and a crisp mineral palate, with fennel and almonds. Good intensity of flavour and a lingering dry finish. Stockists: Liston's, Camden Street, Dublin; Probus, Fenian Street, Dublin, and Oughterard, Co Galway; Wicklow Wine Co, Main Street, Wicklow.

Mas de Bressades Cuvée Tradition 2011, Costières de Nimes 13.5% €13Officially now in the Rhône valley rather than Languedoc, this has always been one of my favourite estates for inexpensive, well-made, supple red and white wine. The nose is lightly floral, the palate elegantly textured with peaches and melons, the finish satisfying. Good medium-bodied wine with a touch of warmth. Stockist: Bubble Brothers, Cork.

La Bergerie de l'Hortus 2011, Val de Montferrand, IGP Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert 13% €13.85Made from an eclectic mix of Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Chardonnay, this has very attractive, refreshing nectarine aromas, layers of nectarine fruits and green almonds on the palate, with a lovely juicy quality. Stockist: Wine Direct, Mullingar, Co Westmeath; 1890-579579.

The Secret Beer Garden Festival

Deveney's of Dundrum is holding an autumn beer festival on Saturday, September 15th, from 2.30-10pm in Pembroke District, Dundrum Town Centre, Co Dublin. Tickets are €20 each and available from Deveney's in Dundrum and Rathmines; The Vintry, Rathmines; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Martin's, Fairview; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock. See beerfestival.iefor details.