Bottling a dream

After years of writing about wine, Richard Mayson fulfilled a dream when he started making his own, writes JOHN WILSON

THE SYMBIOTIC RELATIONSHIP between producer and journalist is not always a happy one. Influential wine critics such as the American Robert Parker, or Jose Peñin in Spain, can make or break a winery with their comments and scores. It doesn't always mean the producer likes or respects the journalists concerned. Some regard them as mere parasites, who know little about wine. Others put up with them as a necessary evil.

In turn, the wine critic has a constant need for information, gained by visiting, interviewing and frequent tasting. They must wade through a mass of PR material, average wines, and sort out facts from what is frequently either spin or pure fiction. So what happens when a journalist turns to making wine?

English wine writer Richard Mayson spent half his childhood in Portugal, and is married to the daughter of one of the leading Madeira producers. He is an authority on Portuguese wines, having written five books on the subject. "But," he says, "my dream was always to have my own winery." As far back as 1989, he realised that Portalegre, a sub-region of the Alentejo, had the potential to make great wine.

The Alentejo is a massive area covering much of the southern interior of Portugal. It produces some of the country's most exciting, modern wines, and is worth visiting if you holiday in the Algarve. Most of it is very hot, but climate and soil vary greatly. Portalegre has very shallow stony soils, a lower rainfall and a cooler climate.

In 2005, Mayson bought a 20-hectare estate there and teamed up with Portuguese winemaker Rui Reguinga to make the wine.

Quinta do Centro lies half way up a hill, and has unusual granite and schist soils that make for fresher, more elegant wines. Part of the property was covered with old olive and cork trees, the rest with Trincadeira, Aragonês, and Alicante Bouschet, all traditional grape varieties, and a little Cabernet Sauvignon.

Mayson planted some Touriga Nacional (Portugal's greatest grape variety) as well as some Syrah and Viognier and, in 2007, the new winery was completed.

There are also plans to renovate four houses for wine tourism. Mayson now divides his time between Portugal and England. The project is the realisation of a dream for Mayson. He is very happy with the results so far, and the wines have received critical acclaim. But has it altered his views on journalism?

"It hasn't changed the way I taste or write, although maybe I am a little more tolerant now, and I have a lot more respect for small winemakers and their work."

He is frustrated by the lack of co-operation amongst Portuguese wine producers, and sometimes wishes they could see the big international picture. However, he now appreciates the difficulties in selling wine, no matter how good it is.

"The market is ferociously competitive, even here in Portugal. We have yet to make any money, but we didn't plan to. I hope to break even by 2012. But the work is very satisfying."

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

The first two wines are from Mayson's estate in the Alentejo, the third and fourth are from other producers.

Duas Pedras 2010 Quinta do Centro, Vinho Regional Alentejano, 13.5%, €13.95This wine came about by accident rather than design; there wasn't enough Touriga Nacional to fill the fermentation vessels, and so 40 per cent Syrah and 2-3 per cent Viognier was added. It is a delicious wine, with fragrant aromas and elegant toothsome damson and blackcurrant fruits. I would try it with grilled or roast pork, with some herbs to complement the fresh flavours. Stockist: Terroirs, Donnybrook, Dublin.

Pedra Basta 2008, Quinta do Centro, Vinho Regional Alentejano, 13.5%, €17.95This is a step upwards in quality. Made from a roughly equal proportions of Trincadeira, Arragonês (Tempranillo) and Alicante Bouschet, with a little Cabernet Sauvignon, this is partially aged in new oak. I found it a little oaky on the nose at first, but that soon blew off. The palate is fresh but concentrated with ripe dark fruits and cassis, and a long finish. Very moreish wine that would go very nicely with roast meats. Stockist: Terroirs.

Dom Rafael Mouchão 2009 Vinho Regional Alentejano, 14%, €14.50Mouchão is one of the historic wineries of Portugal, owned by the Reynolds family since the mid-19th century, with a brief interlude during the revolution in 1974. The flagship wine, simply called Mouchão, is very serious stuff, and well worth trying. The Dom Rafael is made to be drunk earlier.

This is a fairly powerful, structured wine with serious chewy ripe dark fruits, well-integrated tannins and very good concentration. A lovely swarthy wine with real character to serve with stews or red meats. You could decant it before serving. Stockists: Red Island, Skerries; Deveney's, Dundrum; Martin's, Fairview; Probus Wines, Fenian Street, Dublin and Oughterard; Lilac Wines, Fairview; The Wicklow Wine Co.

Munda 2008, Dão, 14.5%, €27.50This is not cheap, but it is a very impressive wine; warm, ripe, dark fruits and dark chocolate on the nose.

The palate is very structured with masses of dark fruits, distinctive dark chocolate notes, and excellent length. Very nicely balanced, if a bit young. Decant before serving, or keep a year or two, but well worth the money.

Stockists: The Corkscrew, Chatham Street; La Touche, Greystones; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; D Six, Harolds Cross; The Coachouse, Ballinteer; Redmonds, Ranelagh.