GO WALKA stroll from this west Clare town is a fine way to see the Shannon Estuary, writes Jim Clancy
TAKEN AT a leisurely stroll, this is an undemanding 10km walk around the environs of the west Clare town of Kilrush that takes place against two distinctly different backdrops. The first half is on woodland trail around what was once the local landlord's estate. The second involves taking in the scenic shoreline of the Shannon Estuary.
If Market Square in Kilrush could be imagined as a palm, with its five digits of streets, Frances Street would be the thumb. It's particularly wide and brings you to a quay, and it's that street you turn your back to as you begin this walk.
Go down Moore Street until the former Church of Ireland and graveyard where you take a right - taking your first right to the Killimer road shortens this trip by avoiding the woods.
St Senan's Church is now Teach Cheoil Chill Rois, run by Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann.
After going by the Turret, a stone-based lodge, you enter Vandeleur demesne and follow the gravelled road until you reach the walled gardens.
The coffee shop here will be the last refreshments available for some time. The gardens re-create the original, which were landscaped for the pleasure of the local landlord's family.
Proceed uphill to the car park, veer left and get around the bar fence until the second right, as you see a bridge ahead of you. The Kilrush River flows against you on the left before the wood road ebbs to the right. Then, avoiding two lefts at fork junctions, you come to a wide opening of newly grown wooding. It's the quietest part of the demesne, and birdsong is more apparent than cars on the not-so-distant roads.
At the end of that clearing take a left along coniferous woodland. You get an option of left, and that's a more pleasurable route. (Straight ahead leads you to the car park again, from where you must take a left along a busier wood road.)
At the gates take a left along a footpath that leads to the Gaelic Games grounds. Called the Cricket Field by locals, its name is a reminder of the landlord influence that was once so prevalent in the area. The pathway ends there, so you must cross to the right side of the road and proceed with caution and in single file.
This 500m stretch of the N67 is deceptively busy, with vehicles coming in number and speed from Killimer car ferry and Moneypoint power station. The chimneys of the latter tower in the distance, the tallest free-standing structures in Ireland. And the most polluting.
Take a right at the signs for Aylevarroo and begin to take in the views of the Shannon Estuary, with the 267m Knockanore Mountain being the most apparent feature of the low-lying north Kerry landscape.
Follow the road along the coast, away from the slipway and beach, and come to a small gap in the plastered wall.
At this point you'll need binoculars. A picnic and bathing suit - for the experienced swimmer when the tide is in - are optional. Beyond the smaller Hog Island is Scattery Island, where St Senan's 10th-century round tower is visible even to the naked eye. A large number of bottlenose dolphins reside in the estuary, so scan the water.
You carry on to the Rock, which is a safe, stony beach to bathe at.
Going by the waterside leads you to Cappagh village and, before that, Hog Island. Despite its name, the only hoofed animals dwelling there are feral goats.
Cappagh pier makes for good angling. From there you take the pathway by the road and try to make out the platform of the West Clare Railway over the wall on your left.
This brings you to Frances Street. You cannot miss the marina, from where you can embark on boat trips to the monastic settlement on Scattery Island and get a closer view of the dolphins.
Frances Street leads up to the square from where you began your outing.
Start and finish Market Square. Free daytime parking in Place de Plouzane, just off the square.
10km of mostly quiet road and gravelled forest trail.
Very easy. Could be completed as a family walk and always suitable for a child's buggy.
Holiday Hostel, on Frances Street (065-9051133), but there's no hotel in town. Buggle's B&B, on Market Square, has a family room (065-9051839).
You can eat (until 5pm), drink and sleep in Crotty's (065-9052470). Cuisine isn't a high point in the town, but you won't starve. Coffey's in the square is good. Stock up for a picnic at Ryan's of Henry Street.
Ordnance Survey Discovery Series sheets 63 and 64, but you shouldn't need either to navigate.
Best points As good a view of the estuary as you'll get, with monastic settlement ruins on an island in front of you.