From flipping fish and the Space Needle to zipping downtown by monorail, the city can be a magical experience, writes Stephen Power
IN PIKE PLACE MARKET, on Western Avenue in Seattle, a 15kg Alaskan halibut is thrown over an ice-covered display counter in a steep arc before dropping suddenly, and very elegantly, into the waiting arms of Anders, the fishmonger.
The fish's journey is not over yet. Having chopped and wrapped four thick steaks, Anders then cries "Back, Jack" and tosses the now headless halibut back across the three-metre divide from his workstation to the market stall.
Erik, who had originally launched the flying fish, holds out his arms in a practised motion that gives the small group of camera-wielding tourists the distinct impression that he has safely landed airborne halibut (and salmon, bream or trout) 1,000 times, or more, and will do again. But this time is different. With arms still outstretched, Erik neatly sidesteps the fish as it drops and then watches it bounce off the shoulders of a Japanese woman, who shrieks with delight, before he finally catches and returns it to the display counter, to a smattering of laughter and applause.
On the market's lower level, "the Amazing William", a robust, ponytailed, middle-aged man in jeans and a loud T-shirt, is opening his wallet, displaying the dollar bills inside and shouting "Gather round, folks, to see the hottest trick in the shop".
He closes the wallet, then opens it again - almost singeing his eyebrows on the fiery- orange flames that leap up menacingly from inside. The trick is delightful and amusing, and so is the shop. It has the look of an untidy Aladdin's cave of magic tricks, fortune-telling slot machines, practical jokes and juggler's starter kits. But it also has the feel of a spooky Chinese emporium where you might buy a small wooden casket bearing the words "Do not water" and containing a "gremlin". For me, Market Magic is all it claims to be, and a real Seattle find.
There is more magic back on the ground floor, where, accompanied by the gentle strains of 12-bar blues from two of the market's ubiquitous buskers, 10 small children are trying to clamber aboard Rachel's back for a group photograph. Rachel is a life-size bronze sculpture of a pig, with a slot for coins, making her Seattle's largest piggy bank. She has stood at the market's entrance since 1986, and visitors from all over the world feed her spare change, which is donated to local good causes.
After all this excitement I'm ready for a sit down and a good cup of coffee. And where better to find one than by taking a short walk along the street from the market entrance to the original Starbucks coffee shop?
Howard Schultz began his worldwide coffee-shop empire in a small and modestly-fronted store here in Seattle in 1976. This is something of a Mecca for take-away-coffee connoisseurs, so the queues are long and chairs are in short supply. But staff are very friendly, and the coffee is excellent. And, after all, it's the place where the phrase "a tall skinny latte to go" was minted, so, as they say here, what's not to like?
A brisk five-minute walk from Pike Place Market, sometimes descending steep outdoor staircases under the thundering Alaskan Way Viaduct, brings me to Elliott Bay Waterfront. I cross the wide road and tramway to walk along the well-planned ocean-front promenade. This is tourist heaven, but many locals hang out here, too, among the fish-and-chip shops, Seattle Aquarium, Odyssey Maritime Discovery Center, Bell Harbor Marina and the thriving docks from where trawlers and ferries sail across Puget Sound.
I take the pleasant 35-minute Washington State Ferry ride to Bainbridge Island, just so that I can come back and photograph the stunning waterfront skyline from the Pacific waters of Elliott Bay itself.
The weather changes in Seattle almost as quickly as it does in Ireland, and even though the sun is shining before the ferry sails, thick clouds gather for the outward crossing, and light rain is falling.
Then, on the return sailing, the sun breaks through, and I gather, with a small group of dedicated snappers, on the windy bow of the good ship Tacoma to chat and photograph the buildings on Seattle's magical skyline.
Anyone who has watched the opening credits of Frasier will be familiar, at least in outline, with some of the stunning architecture to be found here, including Columbia Center Skyview (Seattle's tallest building), the beautiful art-deco facade of Washington Mutual Tower and the mesmerising Space Needle.
I have three days to visit this impressive city, which is a useful amount of time. Most of what the time-limited traveller needs to see is to be found in (or close to) one of three main areas: Elliott Bay Waterfront, Downtown and Seattle Center.
If you choose your accommodation carefully, picking a centrally-located hotel, walking the few blocks between Downtown and the Waterfront (via Pike Place Market) will be a pleasant and picturesque stroll. It does get a bit hilly as you approach Downtown from the waterfront, but, as a consolation, the Metro bus service has a "free ride area" between Downtown and the waterfront.
Riding on the monorail from the Downtown Westlake Center shopping mall to Seattle Center is a short, elevated, magical experience in itself, and once there the magic continues in bucketfuls.
Seattle Center was designed as the site of the 1962 World's Fair, and it is home to Seattle's architectural icon, the Space Needle, plus a fairground complete with a large Ferris wheel.
A short walk away is the remarkable International Fountain, which erupts torrents of water with musical accompaniment and where the brave, or foolhardy, venture right up to the smooth silver dome, even when the fountain is at full spurt.
In the years since the World's Fair, many other attractions have augmented the Seattle Center experience. Among those not to be missed is the Experience Music Project, a rock-music museum founded by the Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen, which is built from sheet metal and intended to resemble Jimi Hendrix's smashed guitar.
When I was planning my trip to Seattle a well-intentioned acquaintance told me to remember three important things about the city: it's always dark, it's always raining and you won't make any friends there.
My experiences during this trip cause all of these "facts" to vanish in three short days - just like magic.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go
Where to stay
Mayflower Park. 405 Olive Way, 00-1-206-6238700,
www.mayflowerpark.com.
This well-located, comfortable and friendly hotel has great food, good service and the most helpful and well-informed concierge service I have experienced. Another major advantage to staying here is that there is a connecting corridor to the Westlake shopping mall and monorail station.
Westin. 1900 Fifth Avenue, 00-1-206-7281000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Located in two round towers, this downtown hotel has non-smoking rooms, an indoor swimming pool and two restaurants.
Where to eat
Ivar's Fish Bar. 1001
Alaskan Way, 00-1-206- 5876500. This extremely popular open-air seafood bar is right on the waterfront. Cod and chips is the usual order, but you can also get halibut, salmon, scallops, oysters, clams, prawns and chicken. Eat indoors or, in good weather, out on the pier, where you can share some of your chips with the resident seagulls.
Le Pichet. 1933 First Avenue, 00-1-206-2561499, www.lepichetseattle.com.
This French, brasserie-style restaurant, close to Pike Place Market, is considered to be at the top of Seattle foodies' list of places to eat. Choose from plates of house-made charcuterie and a roast chicken for two. Seasonal specials include pork chops with a pear-vanilla coulis and sauteed potatoes.
Skycity Restaurant at the Space Needle. 400 Broad Street, 00-1-206-9052100, www.spaceneedle.com/restaurant. This revolving restaurant is at the very top of the Space Needle in Seattle Center. If you book a table, the elevator ride to the top of the 159m structure is free.
Eating lunch here is a good idea, as many of the popular dinner dishes are available at more affordable prices. But, even when your head is saying this is too expensive, your heart will be saying "What a wonderful view".
Where to go
Pike Place Market. 85 Pike Street, 00-1-206-6827453, www.pikeplacemarket.org.
The US's premier farmers' market and home to nearly 200 year-round commercial businesses, craftspeople and street performers and musicians.
Seattle Aquarium. 1483 Alaskan Way, www.seattleaquarium.org.
Listen to the calls of orca whales and stand within a circle of glowing jellyfish. Run your fingers along a sea anemone's soft tentacles and delight in the antics of the sea otters.
Seattle Children's Museum. Seattle Centre, 305 Harrison Street, www.thechildrens museum.org. Here you will find exhibits and programs that spark creativity, nourish the curious mind and inspire children to discover and learn through play.
Space Needle. Seattle Center, near the monorail at Fifth Avenue North and Broad Street, www.spaceneedle.com.
Built in 1962, the Space Needle served as the symbol of that year's World's Fair. It has since become the symbol of Seattle and one of the world's most recognisable structures.
Experience Music Project. The Seattle Center, 325 Fifth Avenue North, www.empsfm.org. The Experience Music Project is dedicated to the exploration of creativity and innovation in popular music. Visitors can view rare artefacts and memorabilia and experience the creative process by listening to musicians tell their own stories.
Seattle Monorail. Stations at Seattle Center (across from the Space Needle) and from Westlake Center Mall, at Fifth and Pine Street, www.seattlemonorail.com.
A favourite part of the skyline and provides a fun, quick and convenient link from downtown Seattle to Seattle Center, home of the Space Needle, the Children's Museum and the Experience Music Project. Each trip takes two minutes to cover the one and a half kilometre route.
Washington State Ferries, Pier 52, 801 Alaskan Way, Elliot Bay Waterfront. Washington State Ferry runs boats from Colman Dock (Pier 52) and also from Pier 50, just to the south, on the waterfront, to destinations such as Bainbridge Island, Bremerton and Vashon Island, with more connections to other destinations around Puget Sound.
Go there
Aer Lingus (
www.aerlingus.com) flies to Seattle from Dublin and Shannon daily via Chicago O'Hare International Airport, in conjunction with American Airlines.