Spirit of Woodstock lives on:THERE IS NO lovelier place in Ireland than Inistioge. Set in a sleepy hollow of south Co Kilkenny by a sweeping curve on the River Nore, the photogenic village has a tree-lined green framed by a mix of churches, pubs, cafes and a reassuringly derelict building to distinguish it from the chocolate-box twee of the Cotswolds.
On wooded slopes above the village is Woodstock, an Anglo-Irish country estate whose gardens were among the finest of the Victorian era. The big house was burned down in 1922, one of many to perish in the flames of the War of Independence, but an evocative facade remains.
In the 20th century the grounds fell into overgrown neglect. When the poet Thomas Kinsella visited in the 1970s he noted that "a rook clattered out of the dining room", saw "cavities of deserted fireplaces" and observed "a path up among the bushes and nettles over the beaten debris".
But a phoenix has risen from the ashes. Although the house, formerly home to the Tighe family, is beyond repair, Kilkenny County Council has been restoring the gardens and arboretum. The triumphant result will be a magnificent legacy for future generations.
Stroll through the soaring Noble Fir Walk, marvel at the majestic Monkey Puzzle Walk and swoon with pleasure in the rose garden. Gentle walks offer glimpses of gracious country-house outdoor life from walled garden to ornamental dairy, Swiss cottage to dovecote and a conservatory originally designed by Richard Turner, the celebrated ironmaster.
Woodstock is within reach of Dublin for an enchanting day trip. As you leave at twilight you will almost hear a piano tinkling and a whiskered beau crooning Come into the Garden, Maud.
www.woodstock.ie, 056-7794033. Entry €4 per vehicle. Open 9am-8pm from May to September and 10am-4.30pm from October to April
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