Drawn to Croagh Patrick

JOHN G O'DWYERcan't resist the magnetic appeal of the ancient pilgrim route on Ireland's holy mountain

WHY IS IT THAT rooted within almost every religion is an ageless tradition of a long walk to a place of redemption? Can it be that somewhere deep in our subconscious, pilgrimage serves as a metaphor for life’s bewildering journey?

Certainly, a characteristic of virtually all belief systems is an unshakeable urge to seek deeper meaning and spiritual resonance by journeying to some distant place our forefathers vested with elevated spiritual significance.

And this doesn’t just apply to the deeply devout, for lately I have noticed myself quite unable to visit Westport without being drawn by the magnetic appeal of the ancient pilgrim route on Ireland’s holy mountain.

This surprises me, for five-star walks are two-a-cent in the Mayo countryside, with the Nephin Mountains offering a wonderful escape into one of Ireland’s last great wilderness areas.

To the south, Mweelrea also presents a beguiling landscape and a memorable mountain challenge, while the Sheeffry Hills remain one of Mayo’s best kept secrets, with isolated grandeur and a strong likelihood you won’t encounter another soul.

By comparison Croagh Patrick can seem tame, eroded and overpopulated. Nevertheless, on my last Mayo visit I found myself once again eschewing the virtually limitless attractions of the local outback and drawn instead to Murrisk car park (see panel) on a clear, cool day. Following the well-worn path upwards past a statue of St Patrick, I eventually arrived to a col where the main track leads right for Croagh Patrick’s summit.

So far so scenic, but now I dithered. My primary objective lay to the left, but somehow the magnetism of the summit proved irresistible. I began ascending, first passing an obtrusively unblended toilet block and then climbing more steeply on the ball-bearing screes that barred the way to the summit.

I wasn’t alone, of course, for year round Croagh Patrick celebrates the rich tapestry of human life. Accompanying me were a motley collection of hazel-sticked pilgrims, barefooted penitents, well-kitted ramblers, inscrutable peak baggers, insouciant Europeans and a group of scantily-clad Irish youths displaying a heroic indifference to the icy breeze.

On top, I was drawn to a view I never tire of – the great sweep north over the lonesome landscape of Mayo’s mountains and moorlands. Few clichés remain unhackeneyed in describing this panorama, so rather than risk adding another let’s just say it competes strongly for the title of Ireland’s finest vista.

My descent again followed the Pilgrim Path down the unsympathetic screes to the col. Generally, I dislike retracing my steps, so when the main route swung north towards Murrisk, I bade goodbye to my walking companions and continued east to pick up a less distinct path running on the south side of multi-headed Crott Mountain. Now entirely alone, I found myself traversing beside a large tumbled-down drystone wall, which I crossed and recrossed several times until it eventually descended steeply to intersect a waymarked route.

Here I had encountered Tochar Padraig, the original pilgrim route to Croagh Patrick which dates from the pre-Christian era when the mountain was known as Cruachain Aigle and used as a centre for druidic worship. Today, it begins 35km away at Ballintubber Abbey and can still be used by pilgrims who register at the abbey and pay the nominal walk fee towards maintaining the route.

The reassuring waymarkers now continued north and downhill, with the great sweep of multi-islanded Clew Bay laid out before me until the arrows swung abruptly left to parallel the Louisburg road. As I completed this final section back to Murrisk, I couldn’t help reflecting that, while Croagh Patrick may indeed be too busy and scarred by generations of penitents to satisfy the purist hillwalker, this is really of little consequence.

What matters here is the 5,000-year tradition of pilgrimage that continues strongly to this day as an enduring proof of the relentless human longing for higher meaning that unbridled materialism can never satisfy.

Route Croagh Patrick/Crott Mountain

Getting thereFrom Westport, follow the R335 Louisburg road and park in Murrisk car park. Your walk begins and ends here.

SuitabilityThis is a high-level hillwalk with one steepish section, but generally it presents few objective dangers or navigational difficulties. Nevertheless, walkers should be well-equipped with good footwear and warm clothing. Care needs to be taken on the treacherous Croagh Patrick screes.

TimeAllow four hours for the full walk with a visit to Croagh Patrick summit. About two-and-a-half hours should be allocated to complete the circuit of Crott Mountain only.

MapIt takes four Ordnance Survey maps to cover Croagh Patrick fully. However, sheets 30 and 31 are sufficient for the described route.

Accommodation and foodAvailable from several excellent pubs and BBs near Murrisk. Otherwise you are spoiled for choice in Westport. Information from Westport tourist office, tel: 098-25711.