It's hard to beat the pleasures of a five-star guest house. Don't forget your wellies, writes James Helm
AS THE TAXI slowed to a halt, it all looked uncannily as I had expected. An elegant, if weathered, facade, well-clipped lawns and pretty flower beds, a flagpole and a hallway lined with several pairs of green wellies.
The English country-house experience relies on age-old ingredients. The solid foundations for success are provided by genteel, tranquil surroundings, an easy-paced luxury and a dash of historic grandeur. Four-poster beds, a well-stocked library and a glass of sherry before dinner are all likely to figure. If the elements are ever so slightly predictable, then that is because they are tried, tested and thoroughly enjoyable.
We went to Hunstrete House, deep in the West Country of England, surrounded by the rolling Mendip Hills. Hunstrete is billed as "a quintessential English country house", and I saw nothing to disprove the claim. The main building is a graceful two-storey affair, and you enter beneath a coat of arms carved from light stone.
The receptionist had me down as "Mr Hell", but I hope I wasn't that sort of guest, although I was a touch surprised at having to wrestle all the luggage up the stairs on my own.
At certain quieter times of the day the soundtrack was one of ticking clocks and crackling fires, with the odd clinking glass in the early evenings.
The atmosphere was relaxed, and certainly not prim, and the children could roam happily without raising tut-tuts of disapproval. The dress code in the dining room is smart.
Hunstrete's history is, as you would expect of a place that gets a mention in the Domesday Book, compelling stuff. The Popham family loom large, having owned the estate from the early 17th century right up until 1950.
It was acquired by Sir John Popham, whose life story reads like an epic - said to have been kidnapped as a child and to have operated for a while as a highwayman, he later became lord chief justice and presided over the trials of Mary, Queen of Scots, Sir Walter Raleigh and Guy Fawkes.
On the walls were portraits of haughty-looking chaps from centuries gone by, plus a detailed inventory of the house from 1644, which included 21 muskets.
All the rooms are named after species of birds, and Dove had a lovely view of the gardens. It was charming, although the four-poster's mattress was a bit soft for my liking. We only found the TV by accident when we were leaving, as it was cunningly disguised as an antique chest of drawers. The bathroom was large, and perfect for a long soak.
Each morning the mist shrouded the wooded hills all around us, and when the sun burst through it revealed a glorious setting. Across the drive was a deer park, and we watched the stags race by, and they watched us.
Behind the house were flower and vegetable gardens where the children ran and explored, and they found two tiny kittens sunning themselves in a flower bed. The hotel's fine garden suites are tucked away here. We managed a brief game on the tennis court, but the outdoor swimming pool was closed. Had we ventured further, the area is criss-crossed by public footpaths, but we did make it across the fields to a small lake where anglers dotted the banks.
The service was friendly, if slightly idiosyncratic, as shown by the luggage episode. It fitted with the surroundings - sedate, not slick, and gracious rather than over the top.
Our journey from Dublin was extremely easy, with a short hop into Bristol's modern airport, then a 20-minute meandering drive down narrow lanes, through pretty villages and lush countryside.
We were lazy, and with a group of friends, and the superb weather meant we were happy to potter around the gardens and the nearby fields while the weekend ebbed away. Yet within easy striking distance are some of England's finest sights.
In such pretty countryside, it's hard to go far wrong, whichever direction you head in.
Bath's Georgian splendour is renowned, and if you haven't already been, then you shouldn't miss it. If you go out of season to avoid the tourist crowds, then it's a place to marvel at and enjoy.
If you love architecture, then gawp at the perfection of the Royal Crescent. If you love rugby, then head for the Recreation Ground, where Bath play their home games.
The centre of Bristol is less than a half-hour's drive away. A relaxed but vibrant place, with so much to do and see that you would be hard-pressed to fit it all into a weekend. It's a deceptively large city, the biggest in the southwest of England, with a rich history of trade and a strong modern cultural scene.
Walk through Clifton and up to the Brunel's incredible suspension bridge, which spans the River Avon. As a student I used to visit friends in the city and enjoyed some great nights out on Whiteladies Road, which is lined with bars and restaurants.
Close by, at the foot of the Mendips, is the small and perfectly formed city of Wells. Its population hovers around 10,000, but Wells has been a city since the 1205, and its best-known feature is its exquisite cathedral, a real treasure.
Slightly farther afield, but still within easy reach, is the picturesque town of Bradford on Avon. I've cycled along the Kennet and Avon Canal towpath from Bath to Bradford, an easy, scenic route and a great way to see the area.
Back at base, we managed to have dinner outside one night and in the dining room the next. The food was high quality, from the kippers for breakfast to the beef at dinner (venison didn't appear, to the probable relief of our neighbours in the next field). Drinks followed in the little sitting room that doubled as a bar.
When the taxi arrived to take us on our return leg it felt as if, for the first time that weekend, something had happened in a rush. It's hard to beat a weekend away with simple pleasures set against such an elegant, historic backdrop. Next time I will try the green wellies for size.
Go there
James Helm stayed at Hunstrete House, Pensford, near Bath, Somerset, 00-44-176-1490490, www. hunstretehouse.com. Junior doubles cost £190 (€250) for BB, per room per night, based on two people sharing. A suite costs £315 (about €410)
5 more English houses
1 Cliveden Taplow,Berkshire, 00-44-1628-668561, www.clivedenhouse.co.uk. In Berkshire, within striking distance of London, Cliveden is a grand place with a grand history. Built in 1666 by the second duke of Buckingham, twice destroyed by fire, it hosted kings and queens galore. In the 20th century it was bought by William Waldorf Astor, and the guests included Charlie Chaplin, Winston Churchill and President Roosevelt. In the 1960s the scandal of the Profumo affair began here when Christine Keeler was a guest.
2 Hotel EndsleighMilton Abbot, Tavistock, Devon, 00-44-1822-870000, www.hotelendsleigh.co.uk. A relative newcomer, having been built in 1810. This award-winning hotel is in Devon, on the edge of Dartmoor, with all the outdoor pursuits that that natural wilderness has to offer.
3 Stapleford ParkStapleford, near Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire, 00-44-1572-787000, www.staplefordpark.com. Or, to give it its full title, Stapleford Park Country House Hotel Sporting Estate. As the name suggests, this is more than just a place to rest your head, offering lots of activities in the countryside.
4 Chewton Glen Hotel SpaNew Milton, Hampshire, 00-44-1425-275341, www.chewtonglen.com. Dating back to the early 18th century and located in Hampshire, close to the sea and the New Forest. A smart, successful place, set in more than 50 hectares of countryside.
5 Lower Slaughter ManorLower Slaughter, Gloucestershire, 00-44-1451-820456, www.lowerslaughter.co.uk. Great name, and a delightful place that dates back to 1658. It's not far from Bourton-on-the-Water, the "Venice of the Cotswolds", and is a great base to explore the area from, We went as a treat after moving house in London a few years back, and it was perfect.
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies from Dublin, Shannon, Knock and Derry to Bristol International Airport. EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies from Belfast International to Bristol. Aer Arann (www.aerarann.com) runs a service from Cork Airport to Bristol.