Michael Carrshouldn't have worried about how his three young children would fare in Goa - they turned out to be his passport to a warm and friendly welcome
THE WOMAN from Finland sitting across from us about 50m from the Arabia Sea in Agonda in Goa, India, looked depressed. Why the long face, we wondered? How could anyone feel down in this idyllic place?
As we chatted while her two young boys played with our eldest lad, Odhran, the reason for the dark cloud became apparent. Daniella was heading back to Helsinki the following day, her family's trip to India coming to an end.
We had arrived in India having travelled all the way from Cork five days previously...two adults and our three children, Caomihe, aged six, Odhran, aged three and six-month-old Caelan.
Lisa and I had travelled extensively over the years but this was the first major family trip since our children were born. In previous travels we had managed to by-pass or just fly over India, so we decided to go to the sub-continent for a month.
While it seemed a natural choice to us, our friends thought we were crazy to be making this trip with children.
"Are you not afraid of . . . " was the prefix of most conversations, followed by either the "water", "the food", "the sun", "the hygiene", the "you name it".
We'd been given a good tip. Go to Agonda in south Goa. This former Portuguese colony has been a destination for holidaying gora (foreigners) for 40 years.
It is a world apart from the rest of India in terms of its Western influence, while still being a world apart from the West.
North Goa was once a haven of hippies, but many of its lush beaches have been developed into resorts and backpacker haunts. Agonda, we were assured, was going to be different.
After touching down at Goa via Heathrow Airport, we immediately took a 90-minute cab journey to Agonda, one of Goa's last undeveloped beaches.
Accommodation in Agonda mainly consists of double-room size beach huts underneath coconut trees. Most rooms are furnished with overhead fans, mosquito nets (not that we encountered those most annoying of winged beasts) and en-suite bathrooms.
The rooms are clean and basic and padlocks for the door are provided. Small restaurants on the beach serve the most delicious fresh seafood and local dishes imaginable.
The children took to the beach without hesitation. Friends at home had asked would there be enough for the children to do. That never came into question during our trip.
Our stay at Agonda was mostly spent at Shanti, a small beach hut residence run by a young Goan couple, Bobby and Shallu, who had recently had a daughter of their own.
Money may be the passport to practically whatever you want in India, but children are the key to the people's hearts. The way our children were treated at all times on the holiday was the aspect that made it so special.
The thought of having a screaming baby in a restaurant in Ireland is one that most parents (and proprietors) baulk at. In India, a crying baby is likely be scooped up into the willing arms of a waiter or chef and transported away with soothing words, leaving you to relax and enjoy your meal.
Shanti's verandas and hammocks were the perfect place to keep an eye on the children as they played on the beach and to watch as the red sun lowered itself into the sea each evening once the children had gone to bed.
A couple of cold Kingfisher beers and a lovely meal on the beach outside the room was the perfect way to end the day.
A lot of our time in Agonda was spent on or around the beach. We took several day trips to spice farms, wildlife sanctuaries, ayurverdic massage and yoga, and moped rides to nearby beaches and a boat trip up river into the jungle.
After two weeks, we left for northern Goa and knew we were firmly back on the tourist trail. Our destination was Calengute, a Marbella-style resort, complete with timeshare apartments, fish 'n' chip shops, scam merchants and hundreds of Russians (who seem to have replaced the Israelis as most Goans' objects of derision).
After Agonda, the pace was too fast and not as relaxing a place to spend time with children. Arambol, however, is definitely worth a look and the markets of Anguna and Arpora are a shopper's dream.
After three days, we took an overnight sleeper train back to Mumbai and headed inland to the mountain-top hill station of Matharan.
The hill stations date back to the time of the Raj, when colonial British and moneyed Mumbaikers escaped the heat and humidity of the monsoons to spend weeks on the high verandas of beautiful guesthouses in the mountains.
A "toy train" took us on the two-hour journey, snaking its way up 3,000 feet to Matharan where cars and motorbikes are banned by law and horseback or rickshaw are the preferred modes of transport.
We stayed at the Lords Hotel, a genuine throwback to colonial times. The price of our room included breakfast, lunch and dinner, all four-course affairs and what must be one of the highest swimming pools in Maharastra, overlooking a quite spectacular mountain range.
The children enjoyed horse rides on the dusty streets and the opportunity to protect our room from thieving monkeys (Matharan's true indigenous population).
The town is surrounded by scenic walks through the shady forests and some wonderful vantage points to take in the surrounding range.
Once again, we were bowled over by the locals' friendliness towards the kids, who at this stage were beginning to wear colourful Indian clothing, Caoimhe even sporting a bindi.
After four days, we decided to take the plunge and head for Mumbai, a mind-bogglingly enormous city with an estimated population of somewhere around 20 million souls.
A taxi brought us directly to the YWCA Hotel, right in the middle of the Fort and Coloba districts. There is not too much for the sight seer to appraise in Mumbai. A boat trip from the Gateway of India to the 6th-century caves on Elephant Island and a stroll on Chowpatty Beach are the main attractions.
Travelling with young children drew stares from entire streets, and if we paused on our ambles for more than 10 seconds, small crowds of politely inquiring locals thought nothing of posing for pictures with the children taken with mobile phones.
To their credit the children handled the attention like old pros, signing autographs amid the Indians' good-humoured banter which at all times make everyone feel at ease.
During the entire holiday, the children handled the change of environment brilliantly. Caelan was still being breast fed, which was a huge advantage as we didn't have to worry about sterilising bottles.
The older two were happy to try out new food and took to most of the milder dishes quite easily. But western options are available in most restaurants.
Travelling with a baby was far less trouble than most people suspect. What helped was that he hadn't started crawling!
A lightweight buggy is highly recommended for both day trips and for sitting your baby in when eating or relaxing on the beach. An attachable umbrella and protective sun lotion are vital.
Like typical Irish, we got sunburned on the first day in Agonda. But thereafter we took lengthy lunches in the shade to ensure the children missed the hottest part of the day. By 4pm they were chomping at the bit to get into the sea.
We left India feeling renewed. The mark of a good holiday with children is not feeling the need for another break as soon as you arrive home.
India will remain, awaiting our return.
Dos and Donts of travelling with children in India
Do . . .
Make life easy and book taxi in advance and go door-to-door where possible.
Keep kids out of the sun between 12-4pm.
Try a little spicy food in the diet before you travel, so some of the wonderful local dishes can be appreciated.
Bring a lightweight travel buggy.
Don't . . .
Try to take on too much. Most children don't want to spend their days in taxis and looking at historic sites. Keep it simple, once they are happy your days will be easier.
Bring too much heavy clothing, keep it light and leave lots of room in your bags for items bought to bring home.
General advice
It is very important that you consult your GP regarding injections or vaccinations needed well before you travel.
Wages are very low in India. There is no need to be over the top but a generous tip should not be beyond your means (say 20 per cent of the bill).
Don't forget you will need a permit from the Indian embassy. A three-month visa will cost you €55.
ShoppingUnless buying in fixed price shops, haggle.
A good rule of thumb in markets is half the quoted price and use this as a starting point when hunting for bargains to bring home.
When to goHigh tourist season is over Christmas/early New Year, so booking well in advance is advised of you are planning to go to India during this time.
Go, stay and have a look
Getting around
Taxis are plentiful and cheap, as are tuk-tuks. It is possible to rent mopeds and trains have air conditioning.
Be sure to agree on prices for journeys in advance with taxis, tuk tuks, and private transport.
Where to stay
It is advisable to pre-book a few nights accommodation, but don't be afraid to look around when you get there.
Beach huts in Agonda start at about €10 a room a night, with en suite bathroom and are no more than €24 (about 1,500 rupees).
Mumbai will cost approximately double that for a good standard family room including breakfast.
Worth a look
The night market at Arpora, north Goa.
A meal at Shanti, Agonda (Jingha Lababdar recommended).
An elephant ride at Bondla wildlife sanctuary, Goa.
A visit to Sahakari spice farm in Goa.
A horse ride on the Matharan forest treks.
Any black-and-yellow taxi journey in the chaotic ballet of Mumbai traffic.
A trip to Elephant Island in Mumbai.
Try a Kulfi (Indian ice cream) on Chowpatty Beach, Mumbai.
Go there Indian Dreams offers high end holidays to India and can
tailor-make trips. It also does special interest holidays such as
Indian Cookery and yoga. www.indiandreams.ie
Cork-based Shandon Travel does a wide range of holiday packages to India. www.shandontravel.ie