Variety in the white varietals

Break out of the mould with these interesting white wines that have personality, writes JOHN WILSON

WHAT IS THE easiest way to irritate a new-world winemaker? Tell her (or him) their wines are well-made and consistent, but a bit lacking in character. Old-world vignerons will be equally upset if you tell them their wine is full of personality, but unreliable.

The vast majority of inexpensive new-world wines that we drink in this country are made from four major varieties: Chardonnay and Sauvignon for whites, Cabernet and Merlot for reds. Add in Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and a few others, and that’s about it. Each country may also have one or two special varieties, offered with varying degrees of success, but to buy something interesting you need to spend more money. At the cheaper end of the market, most are labelled by variety and made to the same recipe, so it isn’t surprising that many taste remarkably similar. Consistent yes, and we should be thankful for that, but not likely to get the taste buds excited.

By contrast, Europe has an amazing array of grape varieties. France and Italy lead the way, where every region seems to offer something unique, but Portugal, Spain and Germany all have their home-grown grape varieties. Look a little further afield to eastern Europe, and even the most knowledgeable wine anorak will begin to feel lost. Not all of these wines are expensive either.

Most of them are not labelled by variety, but by region. It can be confusing, and means taking a punt, but the risk is well worth taking. In the past, cheap European wines could be very unreliable, and some, it must be said, are better remaining undiscovered. But others are truly exciting, and do taste wonderfully different. New world varietals are the safest bet, but if you fancy experimenting a little without spending a fortune, Europe is the place to look. Here are six whites all under €12, and not a Chardonnay or Merlot in sight.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Domaine du Haut Bourg, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu sur lie 2009, 12%, €11.95These days Muscadet, made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, can be really good. Lovely crisp, green apple flavours with an added touch of complexity. This provided a perfect foil for a bowl of mussels in tomato sauce. Stockist: louisalbrouze.com

Collioure Blanc, Cuvée des Peintres 2009, 13.5%, €14.99 (€10 in the Superquinn sale, starting on Wednesday)This is made primarily from a blend of Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris, with some a small amount of Marsanne, Roussanne and Vermentino. Rounded, medium to full-bodied, with plenty of slightly sweet apricots and peaches and a touch of spicy oak. I would try this out with richer fish dishes, possibly a herby fish stew. Stockist: Superquinn

Custoza, Zenato 2009, 12%, €11.25Custoza, until recently known as Bianco di Custoza, is produced in the same region as Bardolino in the Veneto. This version, made from a blend of Garganega and Trebbiano (up to eight grape varieties are permitted), has vivid fresh light crisp apple fruits, and a snappy dry finish. Sip on its own or with simple fish dishes. Stockists: Martin's, Fairview; Red Island, Skerries; Paul's, Donegal; Corcoran's, New Ross; O'Keeffe's, Ennis; Market 57, Westport; Galvin's, Listowel

Cardeto Orvieto Pierleone 2009, Umbria, 12%, €10.95Until recently, most Orvieto was distinctly watery. However, quality producers have managed to coax some flavour out of the Trebbiano grape (known as Prociano here) and other varieties. This example also includes Malvasia, Verdello, Drupeggio, and Grechetto. A deliciously easy wine to drink with verdant fresh lightly textured pear fruits, with a refreshing bite. Great everyday drinking by itself or with seafood. Stockists: Sheridan's Galway, Carnaross and Dublin; Vanilla Pod, Killarney; John R's, Listowel; Lettercollum Kitchen Project, Clonakilty; Marlay Wines, Grange Road, Rathfarnham;Vanilla Grape, Kenmare

Versátil, Alentejo 2009, Portugal, 13%, €10.50Made from three Portuguese grape varieties, Arinto, Antão Vaz and Viosinho, this is a bright and bouncy wine with abundant ripe melons and pear fruits. As the name suggests, good with a variety of dishes, or for sipping with friends. Stockists: Marlay Wine Shop, Rathfarnham; The Gourmet Bank, Churchtown; D Six, Harold's Cross; The Wine Boutique,Ringsend; Red Island, Skerries; Bin No 9, Goatstown; Sweeney's, Harts Corner, Glasnevin; Fresh outlets; La Touche Wines 4U, Greystones; The Coachouse, Ballinteer

Tierra Buena, Rueda 2009, 13%, €10.35 (currently on offer at €9.32)Very forward grapefruit aromas, followed by big, rich grapefruit pith, gooseberry and peach fruit. A blend of two Spanish grapes, Verdejo and Viura with some Sauvignon (I'm cheating a little here), this is a wine with plenty of flavour and character. Stockist: Wines Direct, 1890-579579, winesdirect.ie

SUPERQUINN WINE SALE

Superquinn’s annual French wine sale will run from next Wednesday until October 5th. My white recommendations are: Domaine de Begude Chardonnay (€8, but always great value); Reméage Viognier/Chardonnay (€9); Classic Collection Petit Chablis (€10); Château de Rully (€12); Pouilly-Fumé, Les Pierres Blanches (€12). From the reds I would suggest the Rare Vineyards Carignan (€6), Classic Collection Côtes du Rhône (€7), Corbières Le Fournas (€8), Chat en Oeuf (€8), La Baume Syrah (€8), Château La Perrière (€8), Collioure Peintres (€10), Domaine de la Brunely Vacqueyras (€12), and lastly the sumptuous Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grangeon (€20).

WHITE BURGUNDY TASTING

Kelly’s Resort Hotel will hold its annual autumn wine tasting from October 31st to November 5th. It will feature two of the best white-wine producers in Burgundy, Jean-Claude Ramonet of Domaine Ramonet, and Laurent Pillot of Fernand Laurent Pillot. See kellys.ie or tel: 053-9132001 for further details.

YALUMBA TASTING DINNER

The Corkscrew is holding a tutored tasting and wine dinner with the engaging Jane Ferrari of Yalumba next Wednesday, September 8th, from 6.30pm in the Stephen’s Green Hibernian Club. Tickets are €60. See thecorkscrew.ie or tel: 01-6745731 for further details. jwilson@irishtimes.com