In praise of the bird

Turkey needs a fruity wine with not too much tannin to shine. These suggestions will make good partners for the traditional Christmas bird, writes JOHN WILSON

IS THE CHRISTMAS turkey under attack? Listening to several radio programmes over the past week or two, you would be forgiven for thinking the poor bird was inedible. We have precious few culinary traditions or once-a-year feasts in this country, so it would be a pity to lose them to gastronomic elitism.

Turkey is a fairly accommodating bird in wine terms. As long as you have a wine with reasonable fruit, and not too many tannins, it should provide a decent match. The biggest danger to your wine is not the turkey, but what accompanies it. Very sharp and/or sweet sauces and stuffings do not do much for wine.

Most of the multiples are offering the stalwarts for Christmas: Champagne followed by a Chablis or another white Burgundy, and then a Châteauneuf-du-Pape for the turkey. To be honest, cheaper versions of the big names may be reliable, but are rarely exciting. Look to less familiar names for real value. The southern Rhône has other wines to offer besides Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Spain offers plenty of options; the bigger style from areas such as Campo de Borja (the Artiga from Dunnes at €6.49 is great value) tend to be rich but free of drying tannins. They are inexpensive too, so great for large groups. Rioja is also worth thinking about, but don’t be fooled by cheap Rioja Reserva, you are better off going for a Crianza or Cosecha if the wallet is tight.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Rioja Cosecha Sierra Cantabria 2007, 13.5%, €11.45A more elegant option for those who don't want too much power in their wine, this is a very attractive smooth elegant wine with a touch of vanilla and delicate cherry fruits. Stockist: O'Briens

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Zaccagnini 2008, 12.5%, €15.50Medium-bodied and not too high in alcohol, this has decidedly moreish, ripe dark cherry fruits and a supple finish. Stockists: Available from off-licences and wine shops

Allegrini La Grola 2006, IGT Veronese, 13.5%, €24.99Posh price, but a very posh wine; super elegant, concentrated piquant blackcurrant fruits, with very good length. It went perfectly with my roast chicken. Stockists: Available from off-licences and wine shops

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Grangeon 2008, 14%, €20Big rich and powerful, this also has plenty of spicy, meaty fruits, and excellent length. It will be a match for turkey and the trimmings too. Stockist: Superquinn

Domaine Roche-Audran, Visan Côtes du Rhône Villages, 14%, €16.50Certainly the best wine I have tasted from the village of Visan, and a match for any less expensive Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Lovely intense rich pure dark fruits, and plenty of power too. I would recommend decanting an hour or so in advance. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Thomas's, Foxrock

D'Arenberg The Footbolt Shiraz 2008, McLaren Vale, 14.5%, €16.95Australian Shiraz makes a really great partner for turkey. The Footbolt is one of my favourites, a lovely mouthful of ripe, plum fruit, but with a refreshing juiciness that makes you want another. Stockists: Available from off-licences and wine shops

Liquid treats

It is nice to have a few treats on hand to dip into over Christmas. Fortified wines can be drunk over a few days without losing any of their fruit. I always buy a few nice cheeses and some new season walnuts to eat with them, and stock up on a couple of decent beers to drink with all of those turkey sandwiches.